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Looking Glass/The Nose
Pisgah NF , NC
posted by endercore
For Spring Break my friends and I headed down to Pisgah to get some climbing in. We were planning on climbing at looking glass for a few days and then heading over to linville gorge. We left lexington pretty late at night, and rolled into pisgah at about 2 am. We found a campsite, unpacked, and were about to start a fire when we looked up and saw a bright yellow sign that said no camping... Oh well!
Got the classic "alpine start" the next morning when we woke up about 12, and left for the crag closer to two. Got to the base of the wall, racked up and My buddy and I started the climb and the two girls we were with headed off to hike the trail to the top. 5 pitchs later we top out and are greated by our two friends who present us with some refreshing summit beverages ( and some comfortable shoes!) We enjoyed the amazing view of the mountains for a while and began the hike off.
It was a pretty cool time. Looking glass is super weird because of the infamous "eye brow" pockets. These are sloping pockets of granite which occssonally have a horizontal crack tot allow for gear to be put in the back. Only problem is there are millions of "eyebrows" but you just have to find the right ones that can fit gear. Everyone always says to take tri-cams, but I did the whole route with just cams. .5's, .75's and #1's all fit really well. There were a couple spots for a 2 or a 3. Leave all of your big cams, and passive gear at home in favor of anything small. If you have TCU's those work well to. Over all it was really easy to protect, just had to look for it. It was also a totally different style of climbing- though nothing was very hard. The hardest part is figuring out where the pitches go. I got confused leaving the 3rd pitch and went up when I should have gone out right and took a nice little fall. It was also kind of crowded, I can't imagine how packed it would be on a weekend in prime season.
On tuesday it was raining all day and there were some pretty nasty storms coming in for the next day or two. We were bummed out, and after cooking our lunch in some random baseball dugout at the CCC center to get out of the rain we decided to head to the Brevard public library to research the options for the rest of the week. Instead of camping/climbing in the rain we decided to drive down to the beach. We ended up at Edisto Island in SC. We camped real close to the beach. It was fun, but I would have rather spent the time climbing. Good trip, I would totally recommend looking glass for anyone wanting to get in some good, easy multi-pitch with incredible views. Plus your non climbing buddies can walk up and enjoy the summit with you!
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