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Mountaineering Ecuador
February 2007
Quito
posted by joshuatheNomad
We almost died.
We arrived in Quito late in the evening, no trouble with airport issues other than John forfeiting his toothpaste to new regulations. Apparently we don't need more than three ounces of toothpaste. Ever. So, once in Quito, like every trip I take, I found the local beer and started drinking. Didn't realize that 9,200ft in elevation would significantly decrease my ability to consume. '600cm3' as marked on the bottle had me tipsy. Ok, so, first night we enjoyed Chicago Hostel and the TERRIBLE beer. Next morning, day trip off to Guagua Pichincha and Rucu Pichincha. This was our only acclimating 'hike' up to about 15,200ft before going after Chimborazo at 20,700!! A bit ambitious you ask? Sure. So, around 14,900 John and Jim give me a moment to catch up [remember beer the night before] whereupon they inform me that i look two hours beyond dead. Apparently i had no color left in my face or arms and my lips where smurf blue. I wasn't feeling that bad though. We summited easily and were back down for a late lunch. That night we were off toward Chimbo. One nighted in a local terrible hostel in Riobamba. The hostel is adjacent to the bus terminal. I recommend staying at Hostel Canada instead, its MUCH better! Then off the next day after breakfast toward Refugio Carrel. Jim hiked up to Refugio Whymper [45mins] and John and I just hiked around near the hut. After taking some photos of Alpacas, monuments and each other we ate a bit and started discussing our assault line. We shared the refuge with four clients [two from new england, two from the british isles] and their two guides. The guides were absolutely repulsive personalities. They acted as though they owned the refuge and the mountain. They lost some of their gear and tried to blame us for stealing it. John and I agreed later that if we had been in the states the guides would have taken a good ass kicking, they deserved it. The ride from Riobamba to Refugio Carrel was about 2.5 hours and cost the three of us $35 [$70 roundtrip, total]. Arriving at base camp I was feeling the effects of quick altitude gain. Started hydrating quickly and like any smart mountaineer, took small sips every few minutes. We set off around 01:30 up the normal route [El Castillo]->since found reports confirming the dangerous amounts of rockfall on this route. DO NOT attempt the El Castillo route!! AAI has pioneered a route on the North face that is apparently much more aesthetic and safer, look into it. So, leaving from 5200 meters, we set out basically straight up the mountain. After a few hours John had pulled ahead of Jim and I and was a couple hundred meters above us, nearly rimrocking himself in search of a reasonable route. Meanwhile, Jim and I, whilst slugging on, started noticing ever growing amounts of rock falling from near John's locale. We yelled repeatedly for John to stop so we could get clear to no avail. Finally, the rockfall became so severe that we took what little shelter we could find under coffee table size boulders. Several fist sized rocks hit my pack and one maybe the size of a melon shoved me hard against the ground. Jim was the only of us who had even brought a helmet; what were we thinking? Fortunately for him, he did have the helmet because his shelter was minimal and his cranium cap was ultimately cracked by the rock bombardment! Our scariest moment came when the ground started shaking! Most of the rock was potato size [from the sound of the hits] but the motherlode had set loose! This boulder must have been the size of a VW bug at least, you could feel the side of the mountain vibrate every time it made impact. Worst of all was waiting for it to pass. This time seemed eternal. Every bounce had it one smashing blow away from my demise. I don't know how to accurately describe the intense feeling of a certain death by a body crushing boulder. It wasn't as much fear as just understanding that it was all simply about to end. Then it passed me, only a few feet away, causing an avalanche of smaller rock to rain down on me. After it had passed, I knew Jim wasn't going home to his wife. How was I going to explain that he was still there, popped like a fat tick between two rocks on the side of a mountain? Turns out I wouldn't have to. Once it made its way beyond both of us, I realized I was holding my breath and thus released the deepest sigh of relief in my life. Jim yells up to me,"Josh?-did it get you?" "No, Jim-I guess it missed you too, then?" "Yeah, and I'm ready to get my ass outta here!" "No shit, man" So, now we're both pissed at John and wanting to cuss him if we make it out of life alive. Finally, after nearly 2 hours of being trapped by rock fall, the nightmare slowed enough that we felt safe enough to run for the the hut. John made it down to us and explained on the way down that he was pinned as well. It wasn't him. The super-ego guides, we found later, had actually been intentionally kicking rock off from above! If they had come around again before we left the hut there would have surely been violence on the slopes of Chimborazo. Anyway, with the drama over and not having summited, we left the mountain and hit Cayambe and Cotopaxi which were both beautiful volcanoes. Though we didn't have a successful summit, the glacier work and vistas were amazing. After we'd had enough of the altitude, we decided to drop into the amazon basin for a few days of paddling. John being a whitewater aficionado wanted some testy water. Jim and I, though inexperienced, went for it. Big mistake. I swam the first three series of rapids and that proved enough to wash me out. The third set, complete with five foot standing waves and a class IV hole [though we had been assured there was nothing more than class III on the river] would be the end of my kayaking for the trip. That class four hole let me believe that my life was ending in a tributary river to the Amazon. I knew I was going to be found in a few months somewhere in a small jungle town in Brasil, having been washed out of eastern Ecuador. It was strong enough that I got maytagged for a few roles. I realized then that coming out of the boat was my last and worst option. Tucked and peeled, ready to slip out of the pfd once trapped under a shelf, I knew I was done when I took a drink from Rio Jatunyacu! I was held prisoner of 'The Hole' for a few seconds before it mercifully spat me out. The river wasn't done though; I was swept 75 meters downstream while still under water before finally fighting to the surface for a quick breath of life giving O2. Next, a pristine view of the one situation thus far in joshua's 25 years that brought on pure panic. Mid-stream, in the strength of the current, being washed straight for another series of rapids! John was paddling out to me though, I was safe. No wait, he came within five feet and missed. There I was, floating, exhausted to my last outdoory experience ever. With one last effort, it was all I had left, I tried to yell for help and all that came forth was a panic-stricken scream as I told God that if He'd help me, I'd swim with all that I had to the shoreline. And swim I did. Finally, my feet started hitting rocks and though in hindsight those rocks could have killed me as quickly, I was thankful to feel them. I started using them by kicking off and pushing toward shore. Once in the shallows, I stood and walked, entirely spent, to a rock bed. Pulling off my pfd and helmet, I simply fell down and cried. That's right, 25 years young, super tough outdoorzy guy reduced to tears and pure exhaustion. I'm glad of it and laugh about it now sitting in a coffee shop in the warmth and comfort of not being on a man-eating river. Once we'd spent a couple more days there in Tena, me perusing town, John & Jim paddling a couple other local rivers, the J-team was off to the equator to balance an egg and stand on 'el Mitad del Mundo.' Back to Quito for our last night and a refreshing rooftop breakfast and view of the city from Hostal Chicago and off to the airport the next morning. After that, it was the typical humdrum of airport life...we all know how fun that is! Well, thanks for reading. Watch for future trips and crazy adventures of Josh Roe and the J-team!
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