|
Home > Trip Reports > CYCLETOURING: Cieneguilla – Antioquía.
Trip Images |
4 cycletourists at Antioquia
|
 |
Antioquía main plaza
|
|
Cycling in the Lurin's valley
|
|
|
 |
Trip Report
|
 Email to a friend
|
 Print this page
|
| |
CYCLETOURING: Cieneguilla – Antioquía.
Lurin valley, Lima, Perú
posted by Aníbal
CYCLETOURING: Cieneguilla – Antioquía.
24/3/2007
Bike trip report
Photos of the trip: http://es.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/anibpm/my_photos
Hi all:
On March 24th and 25th my wife, me and another couple of cycling enthusiasts made the route from Cieneguilla to Antioquía.
Originally we planned to leave at 9 am but unexpected things arised forcing us to delay our departure until 1:30 pm, arriving Cienguilla at 2:30 pm.
After a delicious “pachamanca” lunch at one of Cieneguilla’s restaurants “campestres”, we started cycling at 3:30 pm. Not far from there we met Fernando Aguilar and Eva Santillan, a couple of cycling enthusiasts that were informed about this bike trip and joined us.
In general the road is a not paved way in good condition, it is a long and variying grades slope, with few descents and plain sections. There are several bridges along the way, almost one in every town, leading us alternate from one side to the other of the river.
Chontay is the first town on the way, we wanted to stop to visit it, but we were late and time was against us, so, decided to do so on the way back the next day.
Next town is Nieve Nieve, it was almost dark when we arrived, it was a brief stop here to refill water and assemble the headlights.
It is noticeable that all towns along the way have not electricity, so no lights at all. I like this because candles and lanterns lightning give a special charm and generates a suggesting atmosphere. I know this is a polemic opinion opposed specially by locals and very civilized foreigners.
We made the bike ride by night, under the dark New Moon light, with the help of our front headlights that worked beautiful. Fernando and Eva didn’t have lights so we made the trip in a row, alternating positions. The night was very dark, however, the demanding ride was rather fresh, quiet and calm.
In this way we got forward and passing the towns and villages called Las Palmas, Sisicaya, Antapucro, Chillaco, Palma, Pacashuaqui, Picuya, until Antioquía.
In the early evening it rained softly and not for too long. But not far ahead it seemed rained heavy. When arrived Antapucro, right after Nieve Nieve, everything was wet, something not bad at all, since the road was not dusty. Even more, it was pleasant to smell the nice and delicate fragances that come out from the wet soil and vegetation. Unforgettable.
The trip was long, demanding and exhausting. The endless slopes at the last sections of the road forced us to walk sometimes. The ladies were the ones affected by fatigue and exhaustion the most.
To me the darkness of the night contributed to the accomplishment of the enterprise, because without seeing how long and steep were the ascents we kept mentally positive despite the fatigue. When expressions of loss of heart arose from time to time I told them: there is a little left ahead and the best of all is that now much less than before is left ahead (not beeing sure how much was left ahead really). We also encouraged ourselves talking about what we are going to have for dinner upon arriving Antioquía: spaghetti and soup were the preferred meals.
The journey seemed endless, when a dim yellow brilliance ahead far at the bottom of the valley, between the hills, pushed us to hurry. Too much was not left, neither too little. Eva many times didn’t want to continue, exhaustion was extreme for her. Then when we resumed the march suddenly the street lights and houses of Antioquía appeared right there in front of us.
Arrived Antioquía at 00:00 on March 25th, 2007.
Were 8 long hours cycling and walking.
The town was asleep, nobody in the streets, but a few dogs, some barking us, the others just looking. Nothing was open, no stores, no hostels, no nothing. We spent 1 hour knocking at the doors of stores and hostels, no one aswered, suposedly for two reasons: they were deeply asleep or they were not there, except one store that refused to attend us. Bad, very bad, dissapointing to say the less.
The situation was not good. We were super tired, sweated, hungry and thristy and nothing nor no one in the town at that time.
María Elena and Eva accepted the idea of sleeping on the rock made banks of the main plaza and were getting ready for that. I didn’t accept the idea and continued the search until found a house with the TV and lights on, there I was told about the only chance to find accomodation at that time, on the outskirts of the town, right before the entrance.
There we found “Hospedaje El Rosal” of Mrs. Elena Faustino, with the lights on, where we found accomodation, clean good beds, plenty of water baths and food. The lady was kindly hospitable and attended us very well, even more, she prepared a delicious spaghettis with tunna sauce at 2:00 am. A real wonder, considering the situation it exceeded our expectations.
Hospedaje El Rosal, has not sign on the front, is a basic hostal, buy cozy and comfortable, it is located next to restaurant El Timoncito, right before entering the town, to the left, before crossing the river.
The day broke at 9 am for us, after getting the stuff ready and few photos with Mrs. Faustino, we left to visit the town. In daytime Antioquía is awake and alive, it looks nicely and colorful decorated everywhere. The main plaza looks pretty and well kept. Antioquía is a nice and tranquil place where “mazamorra de calabaza” (pumpkin pudding) sold by ladies around the plaza is an authentic sign of local identity. The town is rather small, no more than 5 blocks length by 3 blocks width in size.
Breakfast was at restaurant San Juanito located by the town’s outgate (say 1 block from the main plaza) was good: chicken in red wine sauce (a sort of stew).
Here Fernando and Eva said goodbye, they left back to Lima, we continued a little forward (2 km) to Cochahuayco, another even more tranquil town, which apples and “membrillos” farming are the highlights.
When arriving the first time to such a place the first images and impressions are the ones that remain printed in the eternal memories of a cycletourist, so, the church built in the XVII century, the main plaza shining beautiful blooming trees: spathodea, hibiscus and grevillea, the tranquillity and the bird’s sounds were the welcome comitee.
There in Cochahuayco, right in front of the plaza is “bodega Palomares and hospedaje El Mirador” of Mrs. Jovita Mendoza, kind, friendly, hospitable and generous with tha apple juice. Nice refuge to be protected from the strong midday heat and sunshine and to buy excellent “apple vinegar and membrillo marmelade”.
The return way back lead us along the Lurin’s valley downstream, passing again by the already named towns, but now with a different perspective and a real estimation of the road we had overcome “blinded by the night” before.
At Nieve Nieve, we had shrimps omelette for lunch. Bad and dissapointing, it was not the dish we know under that name.
It took us 4 hours to get back to the departure point of this excellent bike ride experience. Highly recommended.
RECOMMENDATIONS:
Do not arrive Antioquía late at night, everything is closed, nobody awake.
1 Transport.
a) Colectivos Lima – Cieneguilla, by the KFC in San Borja, Aviación Ave and Javier Prado Ave. S/. 20.00 2 pasajeros + 2 bikes.
c) Cieneguilla – Antioquía on bikes. 40 km. along a continuous ascenting not paved road. During daytime heat is suffocating. Riding by night is an option with headlights and under moonlight.
2 Accomodation
a) Antioquía: El Rosal (has not sign), by the town’s entrance, besides restaurant El timoncito, ask for Mrs. Elena Faustino. 6 rooms, 6 good beds (1 matrimonial S/. 20.00 y 5 full size S/. 15.00 each. 2 baths plenty of water. Community phone: 8100238 8100357
d) Cochahuayco: El Mirador, bodega Palomares. Mrs. Jovita Mendoza. Community phone: 8100489
3 Food.
a) Antioquía: good food at El Rosal and restaurant San Juanito located by the outgate of the town. Pumpkin pudding, apple vinegar and membrillo marmelade are sold everywhere in town.
b) In the towns along the road are stores selling basic things: fruit, sodas, crackers, etc.
Aníbal & María Elena
Visit our website: www.geocities.com/anibpm
Accomodation in Lima:
Mont Blanc Gran Hotel
www.geocities.com/montblancgranhotel
|
|
|
Comments
This trip report has no comments.
Add your comment now:
You must be signed in to leave comments.
|
|
|
Other Trip Reports from Aníbal
|
