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Subject:
Bike help
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gonzobeer
Joined: 02/08/07
Outdoorzy Maniac
Louisville, KY
Posts: 246
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Posted: 02/14/08 6:25pm |
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Ok...sooo I know some of you will get a kick outta this. But I've been convinced to start dabbing into biking.
Go ahead...get it out.
Now back to the task at hand;
So the main reason that I never got into mountain biking is the fact that I'm poor and can only afford so many vices at a time. I love climbing...so naturally I pour most of my fundage into that endevour. But! I have fond memories of being a child, and up to a teen, plowing through the parks and streets of whatever town I was living in hellbent on damaging my body. A goal which I succeeded in doing several times ( I know, over-achiever ) So contrary to popular belief, I love bikes.
My problem is that I really don't know the ins and outs of selecting a bike proper. I'm 6'4" and crazy, and don't know about how to select a frame size and what not. Oh and did I mention I'm broke? So don't start throwing out 'kick ass' $2400 bikes, that won't help me at all.
Cheers!
* This message was edited 02/14/08 8:31pm *
Licentia Haud Vestigium
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iClimbRocks
Joined: 02/10/07
Outdoorzy Explorer
castine, ME
Posts: 16
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Posted: 02/14/08 7:35pm |
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Frame sizing/fitting varies from frame to frame and bike type to bike type. The general rule of thumb is to have an inch or two of stand over height (the distance from the inseam of your pants to the top tube of the frame when you stand over the bike). In other words, you should be able to be able to lift the bike around an inch or two off the ground before any tubing makes contact with your body. Any local bike shop worth its salt should be able to help you get sized up for a frame. At around 6'4", you'll definitely be in the large sizes, depending on the bike's style and the frame style.
As far as "no 'kick-ass' $2,400 bikes" goes, it all depends on the type of bike (make, model, and intended use) and where you get it. If you want a high end bike for not much $$, used from a shop or from the owner of the bike can be the way to go (I bought my last freeride mountain bike used). You also wont take a big hit on the depreciation of the value of the bike. However, if you just a mountain bike to bomb around on or a road bike to chop into a messenger/commuter machine, buying used from basically anywhere can do.
As a final word, I bought my current bike from a side of the road flea market type deal; $20 for a sweet riding Peugot steel frame. This spring it gets a fixed gear rear wheel and some new tires! Lovely bikes can be found for a steal!
Get High,
Climb Rocks!
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seicer05
Joined: 12/17/07
Outdoorzy Explorer
Cincinnati, OH
Posts: 20
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Posted: 02/14/08 10:32pm |
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What's going to be your primary use?
My mountain bike cost $800 new. It's a hard tail (front suspension only) and suits me fine. My road bike (Cannondale R400) cost only $300 (retails for much more than that), and sat inside and outside and was rarely used. Did about $100 in repairs, mainly to get the chains going smooth again, replacing the tubes and etc., repairing the brakes... and it's as good as new.
I'd look around seriously for a used model. Buying parts to repair it will be vastly cheaper than buying new.
Abandoned | American Byways | Bridges & Tunnels | UrbanUp
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abenson
Joined: 10/09/06
Outdoorzy Adventurer
Louisville, KY
Posts: 180
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Posted: 02/15/08 8:45am |
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Since you live here in KY, I echo that by nudging you to check out the classified on kymba.org. There is always a good deal on a used, but your giant status will probably be somewhat of a challenge to match up with the right size. Good luck.
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Goose
Joined: 02/01/07
Outdoorzy Explorer
Hampshire, UK
Posts: 34
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Posted: 02/15/08 1:57pm |
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Hey GB - here's my top four first-time budget-bike buying tips:
1. Definitely look at used bikes if your budget is tight, but never buy broken. You'll need to test ride before buying, and a well maintained bike is your best indication that it's a bike worth looking after!
2. The frame must fit you right, for the type of riding you're intending on doing. Whether it's freeride, jumping, XC or just nipping to work and back. Long enough for grinding uphills or low enough to throw around off a drop-off - whatever. Too small is frustrating, too big is lethal.
3. Allow a chunk of your budget for basic (but good) tools and supplies, or you'll be giving all your spare money to the bike shop when your new bike needs simple maintenance. A multitool and pump to take with you on rides, but also some decent hex-keys, cable cutters, screwdrivers etc to leave at home for proper maintenance. A good quality chain lube, an aerosol lubricant to de-grease gearshifts etc now and again, and a tube of grease for bearings etc. A good book is a help too.
4. Keep it simple. Suspension and disc brakes are expensive, and cheap components are a false economy. Start with a basic hardtail, with good suspension forks, V brakes, and gear components from a name you've heard before. Shimano, SRAM, or even Suntour at a push. Good wheels can be the difference between a friend for life and a millstone round your neck. Staright wheels when you look over the bike is always a good sign, but check the spokes are all comparatively tight. Uneven spokes can indicate the rims have been extensively, and repeatedly retrued.
5. Pick a colour you like. If you love it, it'll love you right back.
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Wade
Joined: 07/23/06
Outdoorzy Original
Bowling Green, KY
Posts: 860
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Posted: 02/15/08 4:43pm |
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Dang Goose, you really need to blog for us.  Good advice!
Gonzo... I have a nice Marin hardtail that cost me about $500 (It was the previous year's model when I bought it). Front suspension, decent components, etc. It fits my needs. I even commute to work on it sometimes. But be forewarned, if you get into more hardcore trails (like abenson keeps draggin me to) it will wear on a bike like that.
Also, on Goose's color comment, silver is nice because you can scratch it up and it's hardly noticeable.
I'm a lover, not a racer... --Wade
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gonzobeer
Joined: 02/08/07
Outdoorzy Maniac
Louisville, KY
Posts: 246
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Posted: 02/16/08 12:25pm |
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I appreciate it guys.
Mountain biking is something that I have done in earnest, but never 'correctly' i.e. 'Hey! That hill looks fun, CRAP!'
I did my stint as a messenger in NYC when I lived up there last, so I know how to ride, and ride well. I just needed a hand with the ins and outs, and some of the sideways even.
Oh, and Wade; "silver is nice because you can scratch it up and it's hardly noticeable."
Please tell me you did not just say that 
* This message was last edited 02/16/08 1:56pm *
Licentia Haud Vestigium
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flanderflop
Joined: 11/08/07
Outdoorzy Explorer
Louisville, KY
Posts: 10
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Posted: 03/12/08 7:01am |
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On sizing: The fist thing you will probably look at is standover height. Someone before suggested 1-2 inches, which is about right for a road bike, but for a mountain bike you want a little more, like 2-3inches. To check this, stand over the bike and pick the bike up (both wheels) When you have both wheels raised as far as you can without doing damage to your sesitive areas, the height of the wheels off the ground in the standover height.
All this being said, most full suspesion designs drop the top tube down so that there is more standover height, which is nice so you can focus on the fit that really matters... Cockpit length.
The Cockpit length is the distance between the center of the saddle and the center of the handle bar. If this is too long, you will have to hold your body weight up with your arms because you are too stretched out, if it is too short, you will feel cramped, and have the potential of hitting your knees on the bar. When you sit on the bikeyour weight should be spread pretty evenly between butt and hands, and you should be able to let go of the bar without doing a whole lot of work with your lower back.
So here is what you do.
1. check stand over height- if it is sufficient move on to step 2
2. adjust seatpost height. - There is a fine line here, and seatpost height depends a little on your riding style. If you are jumping a lot you want a lower height, if you are riding cross country you move closer to a road height adjustment which lets your let almost hit full extension at the bottom of the pedal stroke.
3. Check Cockpit length - Basically just make sure you don't have too much weight on your hands and that you feel comfortable on the bike
4. Ride. - Take a test ride and see how the bike feels. Ride is for 10 minutes and you will feel if there is anything out of place.
______________________________
Goose Creek Cycle
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