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Subject:
Your Local Climbing Seasons
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Happiegrrrl
Joined: 09/25/07
Outdoorzy Explorer
New York City, NY
Posts: 7
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Posted: 12/03/07 8:56am |
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Hey - I am thinking about an extended road trip(again....well, I never stopped), climbing throughout the US and working with various trail crews while I'm at it. It's a far-flung dream....Issues of funding/income production and anxiety of stepping out of my comfort zone/current situation cause me to stagnate on getting organized....
But!
Maybe you all can give me some ideas on your local areas.
- What's your local crag(s)?
- What's the full climbing season, and also the "peak" season(if you picked a 4-6 week timeframe).
- Name one(or more) kitschy "Roadside America" type attraction that is nearby, if you can think of it.(I love those sorts of things; old stuck-in-time tiny museums, giant fiberglass statues, funny yearly events that are so hokey they can't be missed, stuff like that).
Of course I can find the answers to my query easily enough with some effort(which of course I would put in anyway when the time comes), but this is more fun, more personal and a good way to get to know people! And give the climbing thread some action, too.
Mine is:
- The Shawangunks of New York. Spectacular trad climbing from 5.EZ to 5.CantDoIt
- Climbing season begins mid to late March and goes through November. October is peak season, with fall foliage offering beautiful perspectives, and late July/August can be humid enough to make climbing further north a better option.
- The local town of New Paltz isn't kitschy, but it does have a 1960's vibe. Lots of artisan stores with craftwork, tie-dye offerings and such. And the Mohonk Mountain House, an historic top-tier resort allows day-pass/yearly membership holders for the Mohonk Preserve(this is the owner of the land the cliffs are on) free entrance. You can get a glimpse at a scenic hotel from back in the 1800's juxtapositioned with the material wealth of today....a sort of odd thing, if you pay attention to subtlety.
Here's my blog and here's my online t-shirt shop.
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endercore
Joined: 02/18/07
Outdoorzy Adventurer
Lexington, KY
Posts: 141
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Posted: 12/03/07 12:19pm |
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my local crag is red river gorge and then there are some other smaller crags and boulders scattered throughout eastern KY.
climbing is year round, although i would not suggest anything between june and september becauese it is to hot and humid. plus the wasps tend to take nests in all the good holds. Prime time would be from about october-early december. Spring is also good in the red, but it tends to rain more in those months.
the red is known for it's sport routes, particually the steep overhanging ones. The biggest jugs you'll ever fall off. But there is also slabby stuff. Not as technical as the new, which is a mere 4 hour drive. There are about 3000 routes, with an about equal distribution of sport and trad. The trad isn't great, but I sure like it. The community is awesome, everybody hangs out at miguels which is the best pizza in the entire world. Ask gonzobeer, he'll tell you and he''s even a chef. He charges 2 bucks a night to camp, showers are available. You can also camp in the national forest for a small charge. If you plan on staying a while its like 30-50 bucks for a year pass. I'm not sure what roadside attractions there are for you to find, execpet for the climb roadside attraction which is the coolest 5.7 handcrack I've ever climbed. Although i think one of the near by towns, beaytville, has somecrazy festival... i think its the woollyworm festival?
if you want more info check out redriverclimbing.com there is an online guidebook, and a fourm where you should be able to gather useful info from the local climbers.
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gonzobeer
Joined: 02/08/07
Outdoorzy Maniac
Louisville, KY
Posts: 242
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Posted: 12/10/07 12:02am |
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Ask gonzobeer, he'll tell you and he's even a chef.
That's right! don't ask me for beta, but forward all culinary inquiries to me.....apparently. And what do you mean by 'even' a chef?
And more what do you mean by 'the trad isn't great?' man endercore, you're breaking my heart! The trad is fantastic! Bomber placements with sketchy starts, annoyingly fun roofs, sweet hand cracks, alittle offwidth, some face and a couple good finger locks. And if you're lucky all in the same route.
Oh, and the Spicy italian sausage with pineapple pizza at Miguels is fanTASTic!
* This message was last edited 12/10/07 12:10am *
Licentia Haud Vestigium
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laclimbchick
Joined: 02/22/07
Outdoorzy Adventurer
Nashville, TN
Posts: 66
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Posted: 12/10/07 5:50pm |
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Oh, and the Spicy italian sausage with pineapple pizza at Miguels is fanTASTic!
That is sooooo true.
Leslin
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endercore
Joined: 02/18/07
Outdoorzy Adventurer
Lexington, KY
Posts: 141
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Posted: 12/12/07 9:38pm |
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Quote: Quote:
Ask gonzobeer, he'll tell you and he's even a chef.
That's right! don't ask me for beta, but forward all culinary inquiries to me.....apparently. And what do you mean by 'even' a chef?
And more what do you mean by 'the trad isn't great?'
1) that your opionon counts more than mine
2) I love the trad at the red. Haven't climbed anything else since I've been back from CO. (other than some eastern KY bouldering sessions) However, you must admit that the trad in the red is of its own bread... one that is near and dear to my heart, but not always so for others. I've often heard people bitch about how the trad in the red is not that great... but what can I say, they wern't from Kentucky. Can you really trust someone that isn't from the commonwealth? I guess i was trying to say that it wasn't 'pristine' or 'perfect', but who wants that in a trad route, its about adventure! And there is nothing bettter than using your #11 hex, red alien, and a #2 stopper all in the same route (with a 30 foot runout)
happygrl you will love the red, come visit!
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Happiegrrrl
Joined: 09/25/07
Outdoorzy Explorer
New York City, NY
Posts: 7
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Posted: 12/18/07 8:07pm |
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It's definitely on my list - maybe 2008 will be a road trippin season for me. Let's hope!
Here's my blog and here's my online t-shirt shop.
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pludos
Joined: 11/30/07
Outdoorzy Explorer
Colorado Springs, CO
Posts: 3
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Posted: 12/19/07 3:10pm |
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Well my local crag is Red Rock Canyon http://www.redrockcanyonopenspace.org (Colorado Springs) there are 85 routes have been established with difficulties ranging from 4th Class to 5.13, then right across the street (literally) there is Garden of the Gods http://www.gardenofgods.com/parkinfo/index_113.cfm which has numerous routes. About 10 minutes away you can get to Cheyenne Canyon http://www.mountainproject.com/v/colorado/colorado_springs/north_cheyenne_canyon/105744346 which has around 30 or so granite routes you can do.
So locally here in Colorado Springs you have many areas to choose from without much driving.
About an hour or so south you can get to Shelf road in canyon city. http://www.mountainproject.com/v/colorado/caon_city/shelf_road/105744267 hot in the summer, but offers some of the best winter climbing.
Oh and of course one of my favorite about 45minutes west through the mountains you have 11mile. http://www.uppersouthplatte.net/ijourney/msoplatt/11milecn.html some nice climbs out here, and the scenery is nothing short of awesome.
As far as the weather, can never tell around here went out with my partner and climbed crack parallel in North Cheyenne canyon on 4 Dec, but as of late been to cold, hoping the weather breaks soon. If it helps though we were full up on the Rock every weekend in March last year.
There’s more north such as boulder, and Eldo Canyon, but these are our local ones hope it helps!
Climb On
Colorado Springs RockRatz
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lindseysusan
Joined: 01/05/08
Outdoorzy Explorer
Bowling Green
Posts: 2
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Posted: 01/05/08 8:17pm |
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I have just gotten into climbing and I am hooked. Me and my grandpa go. He's got tons of gear and a great park on Green River in Hart County, KY. Give us a line and we can show you around. There are some great cliffs!
About 20 minutes down the road you can see Guntown Mountain and Mammoth Cave... and the teepee hotel.
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abenson
Joined: 10/09/06
Outdoorzy Adventurer
Louisville, KY
Posts: 158
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Posted: 01/07/08 8:52am |
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lindsey that is cool, do you know if the part you are climbing on is the overlying sandstone capstone in the Mammoth Cave area or is it just a decent limestone face? I would be interested in checking that out.
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Wade
Joined: 07/23/06
Outdoorzy Original
Bowling Green, KY
Posts: 824
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Posted: 01/07/08 9:34pm |
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I've heard about that place Lindsey. It has a ropes course and some zip line stuff, right?
Sounds cool. May be a good Summer weekend outing.
I'm a lover, not a racer... --Wade
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